CHINA - Beijing

We got up early, after the interesting border crossing the night before, in order to catch a glimpse of the spectacular scenery leading up to Beijing. Not all of it was as spectacular as we had expected although we did catch sight of the Great Wall of China along one stretch. The train meandered through the mountains before heading over flatter land towards Beijing. We arrived early afternoon.

We left Beijing main train station into a huge crowd of people. We noticed a girl wearing a hoody with the name of the hostel we had booked on it, we told her we had a booking and she said she would take us there. She was obviously drumming up more business as more and more people arrived. We piled into a mini bus and the 3 or 4 Chinese girls crammed into what space they could. They were very friendly and smiley, the best welcome to a city so far, a definite good start for Beijing. After travelling down the main roads we got to some very narrow streets, "The Hutongs." Our hostel is on one of these streets and it is a fantastic place, always bustling inside and out. Loads of cabels cross overhead of these narrow streets and traders encroach on them. It is definitely the best hostel we have been to so far.

After chucking our stuff in our room we ventured out into the mad surroundings. It is a fantastic area, just south of Tiaanmen Square, everywhere we go people shout hello and try to beckon you into their shops. Not got too annoying yet, they say hello we say hello back!

We spent the first few days here doing a few obvious things.

The Summer Palace took up most of our first day. It is a huge park with fantastic architectural wonders. While here i was asked to pose for a photo with a lady for some reason, as was Karl and Clem, bizarre.

We spent a large proportion of a day at the Olympic park. We went into the birds nest stadium and watercube, both of which are truly spectacular, however the stadium is a little disappointing, all that effort to make the outside spectacular and none of it is evident from the inside. It just looks like any other stadium internally.

We also visited the Lama Temple an extensive temple complex culminating in a 20m high Buddha statue which is entirely carved from one tree trunk.

Another day was at the Temple of Heaven. A series of architectural marvels including a sacrificial circular alter, the echo wall and main temple itself. Circular in form to echo the sky with blue tiles to represent the heavens.

We spent a couple of lazy days looking around the Hutongs which are awesome, i love the whole barterring thing.
Before starting our China tour we had a day trip to the "nearby" city of Datong, 7 hours away by train. While there we took in the sights of the Yungang Caves and Hanging Temple both of which were remarkable.

Upon returning to Beijing we stepped into Tiananmen Square for the first time. What a huge space, 800m long by 500m wide, the largest square in the world! The final day before the tour we hired bicycles. A must for anyone visiting. A great way to explore the city but also a real eye-opener, fun and hairaising, at one point we crossed what must be the widest road i have ever seen, 6 lanes each way + a 4 lane cycle path! So roughly 16 lanes in total! We cycled to Jingshan Park which is a man-made hill park directly North of the Forbidden City positioned according to Fung Shui and made of the waste earth from the Forbidden City Moat.

From the top you get one of the best views of Beijing, 360 degrees. We then ventured into Beihai Park right nextdoor. After crossing the 16 lane road, we cycled down Tiananmen Square and found the hotel we would stay in the following night when starting the tour.

I can't believe i almost forgot to mention going to see the CCTV Building, still in construction, (OMA).

Also we saw the National Centre for Performing Arts.

During our time around that area we samped some excellent food, most famously Beijing Duck where nothing is wasted. First of all the skin and meat is served with the pancakes psring onions and cucumber all topped with sauce, just when you are starting to get full they bring all the bones which have been sauteed in flour and psices to nibble on and then finally a stock soup made from the bones, excellent! Another night we ate in a grotty cafe restaurant in our Hutong. Rubbish everywhere some cockroaches on the wall, but the food was excellent and the fried rice is yet to be beaten, the best rice i have ever had!

We said a sorry fairwell to the excellent Leo Hostel after lunch on the 23rd November and headed towards Harmony Hotel. Once there we checked in and met the group of people we would spend the next 3 weeks with. Our tour leader Lucy (Chinese), Jakob and Katryn (Norweigen), Ivor (British), Aoifer and Eamon (Irish), Tara and Justine (Irish and American), Madonna and Katelin (Australian). First impressions were excellent, a nice bunch of people. We had a meal together and got chatting.

Next day we had a trip organised to a section of the Great Wall of China, Jinshang Lin to Simatei about 11km. It is an excellent stretch, far enough not to have less tourists and it is one of the sections which is more orignal than other parts. The walk was hard going, steps up and down following the contours of the landscape. One section of 103 steps was particularly difficult having more in common with a ladder than stairs. The views were however spectacular and well worth the effort!

That evening we went to an Acrobatics show, brilliant.

Next day, Karl and I woke up early to visit Mao in his Mausoleum. Then upon returning we went to the Urban Planning Museum (more interesting than it sounds) and went to a very interesting area called 798 Art District in the Far NorthEast of the City. The area is made up of old industrial buildings transformed into Artisit studios. The array of artwork was vast. We had a drink with the group that evening which was another excellent way to get to know them a bit more.

Final day in Beijing was busy. First we had a tour of the Forbidden City which was interesting followed by a visit to a charity organisation called Huiling in the Hutongs north of the forbidden city. Our tour operator Intrepid tries to offer support to them by bringing foreigners to visit. They teach people with learning difficulties practical ways to subsidise their living. They made us a gorgeous pancake roll and dumpling lunch. This followed by a request for someone to play the part of Father Christmas in a performance they were about to put on. Father Christmas was traditional represented as the Emporer and should have a dark beard. Everyone turned and looked at me! So i got whisked outside and dressed in the finest Emporers outfit and helped hugely in the performance. This was followed by much music and dancing by everyone! no one escaped. Karl the donkey and Clem the old lady. We then had a Chinese Calligraphy class taught by a very strict student! All in all a fantastic experience!

That evening we boarded the Hardsleeper train to Xi'an, most famous for it's Terracotta Warrors. More to come!